Field Notes
The slow art of missing your train in Lisbon
The 28 tram was pulling away as I reached the stop. For once, I let it go — and the afternoon got better for it.
The Archive
Field Notes
Field Notes
Karl the fog, and a city that dresses for four seasons at once
Locals have a name for the fog that pours over the hills most afternoons — Karl — and planning around him is the first thing you learn here.
Field Notes
The unwritten rules of a London escalator
Every city has unwritten rules. London's are mostly about queuing, apologising, and — above all — which side of the escalator you stand on.
Field Notes
The one word that changes how Paris treats you
Travelers love to call Parisians rude. Usually they just skipped a word the whole city runs on.
Field Notes
A ferry between continents, twice a day
In Istanbul the morning commute can take you from Europe to Asia and back — by ferry, under circling gulls, for the price of a bus ticket.
Field Notes
In Cape Town, the mountain decides your plans
You can plan a day in Cape Town however you like, but Table Mountain and the wind that wraps it get the final say.
Field Notes
Bali offers itself to everyone, and somehow stays itself
Bali has spent decades offering itself to the world — surfers, honeymooners, yogis, laptop nomads — and remains stubbornly, deeply itself.
Field Notes
In Sydney, the sun is a local hazard
Sydney lives outdoors — harbour, beaches, endless sun. The catch is that the sun here is genuinely dangerous.
Field Notes
Rio belongs to the street, so pack like it
Rio happens outdoors — on the sand, in the water, along the promenade. Which is exactly why you should leave most of your valuables behind.