The Archive

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Countries

Why Iceland runs on hot water

A country of 390,000 people heats nearly every home from the ground beneath it. Here's what that feels like — and what it quietly teaches the rest of us.

Guides

48 hours in Kyoto, minus the crowds

A thousand shrines, ten million visitors, and a simple trick for seeing the best of the old capital without queuing for any of it: be early, or be elsewhere.

Field Notes

The unwritten rules of a London escalator

Every city has unwritten rules. London's are mostly about queuing, apologising, and — above all — which side of the escalator you stand on.

Field Notes

A ferry between continents, twice a day

In Istanbul the morning commute can take you from Europe to Asia and back — by ferry, under circling gulls, for the price of a bus ticket.

People

The pyramids have a bus stop

The pyramids are not out in some distant desert. They sit at the edge of a living city of twenty million, with traffic and a pizza sign in view.

Field Notes

In Sydney, the sun is a local hazard

Sydney lives outdoors — harbour, beaches, endless sun. The catch is that the sun here is genuinely dangerous.

Guides

Why you should arrive in Cusco a day early

Cusco sits at 3,400 metres, and the altitude is not a detail to power through. Plan for it and the old Inca capital opens up.

Field Notes

Rio belongs to the street, so pack like it

Rio happens outdoors — on the sand, in the water, along the promenade. Which is exactly why you should leave most of your valuables behind.